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PostPosted: Wed Aug 18, 2010 3:19 pm 
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Hi all,

I've crunched some numbers and want to pursue a pre-owned Breitling. My question to you is how I can evaluate individual watches I come across?

What do you look for?

Thanks


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 18, 2010 3:38 pm 
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First thing I look for is to make sure the watch includes all correct papers and boxes. Does the serial number on the watch match the cosc certificate and warranty card? VERY IMPORTANT?

Then I want to see closeup photos of the face, case back with serial number, bracelet, and clasp. I'm looking for flaws in the crystal, deep scratches in the metal, and signs of heavy wear....all of which impact the value.

I also like to know if the watch was ever serviced and the reason for the repair.

Lastly, I'm evaluating the seller the entire way. Does the seller respond quickly? Is the seller polite, pushy, rude, understanding that this is a large purchase, willingness to answer my questions. I'm also looking for feedback either here, other forums, or the bay. In my opinion this is most important part in my decision making process.

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 18, 2010 3:43 pm 
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Firstly, make sure it's real! One of the easiest ways to do that is to post up a few decent pictures on here.

Once you've established it's real, make sure it has the serial number intact on the caseback. The serial number is engraved below the model number. The serial is important as Breitling will not touch a watch that doesn't have it's serial number intact, so a watch without a serial is little more than an expensive paperweight as far as Breitling are concerned.

These two points above are enough to be OK to buy a watch, as it's genuine and it can be services by Breitling.

Next stage up is to make sure it has all the paperwork - ie warranty card, COSC cert (if it's a chronometer certified piece), manual and if it's an LE, the LE booklet. The paperwork is not vital, but helps the provenance of the watch and make it more valuable, especially if you come to sell it on.

The box is also nice to have (although they can be replaced if not) so make sure that's there too.

Lastly, make sure the price is OK for the condition of the watch. Easiest way to check out the going rate is to check completed sales on eBay as that shows what things actually went for and not just asking prices. Additionally (although they only show asking prices) check out Chrono24.com to get an idea of prices.

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 18, 2010 5:19 pm 
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I actually don't mind buying without box and papers - I guess given my affinity for vintage pieces you have to accept that no papers is the norm. I've got some pretty good deals because of that, but you do have to be more careful to ensure that the watch is correct - not just real, but also not acquired illegally. The lack of documents will also affect resale value if that is a concern.

Other than that I think that mfserge and Driver8 have said it - and while it is a cliche, definitely buy the seller.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 19, 2010 5:42 pm 
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Roffensian wrote:
I actually don't mind buying without box and papers - I guess given my affinity for vintage pieces you have to accept that no papers is the norm. I've got some pretty good deals because of that, but you do have to be more careful to ensure that the watch is correct - not just real, but also not acquired illegally. The lack of documents will also affect resale value if that is a concern.

Other than that I think that mfserge and Driver8 have said it - and while it is a cliche, definitely buy the seller.


Thanks to all. I am seeing descriptions like Outstanding, Excellent and Very Good in descriptions of Lings. Is there a cheat sheet so I can decipher the grading scale?

I did search for this but didn't come up with anything useful


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 19, 2010 6:23 pm 
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werewolf wrote:
Thanks to all. I am seeing descriptions like Outstanding, Excellent and Very Good in descriptions of Lings. Is there a cheat sheet so I can decipher the grading scale?

I did search for this but didn't come up with anything useful

You could ask for a rating on the Timezone grading scale, these are fairly widely used (but not universal). Here's the link:
http://www.timezone.com/library/tzguide ... 2192343750


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 20, 2010 2:06 am 
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werewolf wrote:
Roffensian wrote:
I actually don't mind buying without box and papers - I guess given my affinity for vintage pieces you have to accept that no papers is the norm. I've got some pretty good deals because of that, but you do have to be more careful to ensure that the watch is correct - not just real, but also not acquired illegally. The lack of documents will also affect resale value if that is a concern.

Other than that I think that mfserge and Driver8 have said it - and while it is a cliche, definitely buy the seller.


Thanks to all. I am seeing descriptions like Outstanding, Excellent and Very Good in descriptions of Lings. Is there a cheat sheet so I can decipher the grading scale?

I did search for this but didn't come up with anything useful

As Otto said, TZ have tried to standardise a rating system, but it's still hugely open to interpretation. Someone's "Excellent" may be someone elses "Fair". You also have to consider the fact that someone may be saying "Excellent.... for its age". It's difficult to quantify.

Your best bet is to just ask the seller loads of questions. Is are there any nicks, dings or dents in the case or bezel? Are there any deep scratches anywhere at all? Is the AR coating perfect? Are there any "desk diving" scratches on the clasp or bracelet? If so, how many - too many to count, or one or two? That kind of thing. Also, ask for more pictures of any scratched areas. Hairline surfaces scratches can be easily polished out : deeper ones may need professional attention so be sure the price is in accordance with that.

Asking questions and getting pictures is far easier that trying to second-guess someone's own personal take on some kind of rating system.

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 20, 2010 4:54 am 
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We did put the TZ scale in a sticky in our sales forum along with the sales related acronyms - viewtopic.php?f=3&t=16819


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 20, 2010 8:45 am 
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It's always good idea to ask for detailed photos, so you can see wear and damage to the watch

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 20, 2010 8:46 am 
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Roffensian wrote:
We did put the TZ scale in a sticky in our sales forum along with the sales related acronyms - viewtopic.php?f=3&t=16819


Sorry Roff, I missed that

Thanks


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 20, 2010 10:32 am 
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Driver8 wrote:
werewolf wrote:
Roffensian wrote:
I actually don't mind buying without box and papers - I guess given my affinity for vintage pieces you have to accept that no papers is the norm. I've got some pretty good deals because of that, but you do have to be more careful to ensure that the watch is correct - not just real, but also not acquired illegally. The lack of documents will also affect resale value if that is a concern.

Other than that I think that mfserge and Driver8 have said it - and while it is a cliche, definitely buy the seller.


Thanks to all. I am seeing descriptions like Outstanding, Excellent and Very Good in descriptions of Lings. Is there a cheat sheet so I can decipher the grading scale?

I did search for this but didn't come up with anything useful

As Otto said, TZ have tried to standardise a rating system, but it's still hugely open to interpretation. Someone's "Excellent" may be someone elses "Fair". You also have to consider the fact that someone may be saying "Excellent.... for its age". It's difficult to quantify.

Your best bet is to just ask the seller loads of questions. Is are there any nicks, dings or dents in the case or bezel? Are there any deep scratches anywhere at all? Is the AR coating perfect? Are there any "desk diving" scratches on the clasp or bracelet? If so, how many - too many to count, or one or two? That kind of thing. Also, ask for more pictures of any scratched areas. Hairline surfaces scratches can be easily polished out : deeper ones may need professional attention so be sure the price is in accordance with that.

Asking questions and getting pictures is far easier that trying to second-guess someone's own personal take on some kind of rating system.


Surface scratches vs deeper (needing professional attention) -- can I evaluate it by using the old 'does it catch your fingernail' test?


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 20, 2010 10:36 am 
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That's probably as good as anything, although quality pictures are also pretty helpful if you can't handle the watch.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 26, 2010 4:30 am 
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Most have already been said about what to look for when it comes to the watch, so no need to repeat that, but I also like to do a deeper check on the seller than just sales references. As you have sent emails with questions, you should have his/hers name and possibly also the phone number. That, along with their username - google everything! And don't stop with just Google, try all possible open registers. Try to build a picture of the seller if he/she is trustworthy or not. If I'm not fully convinced, I back out.

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 13, 2010 12:07 am 
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don't forget to open the back cover and check the movement.
new or old? whether polished eta2824 or 7750.


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 13, 2010 12:09 am 
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aleister wrote:
Most have already been said about what to look for when it comes to the watch, so no need to repeat that, but I also like to do a deeper check on the seller than just sales references. As you have sent emails with questions, you should have his/hers name and possibly also the phone number. That, along with their username - google everything! And don't stop with just Google, try all possible open registers. Try to build a picture of the seller if he/she is trustworthy or not. If I'm not fully convinced, I back out.

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