The Breitling Watch Source Forums

Not sure if this belongs here but I am sure that Roff or Driver8 will fix it in no time if it does not
Well, the disease is not getting any better. In actual fact it is showing signs of progressing to the next stage
Where I have been quite content for some time admiring my watches visually and phisicaly I am more and more intrigued by what is really happening inside those little marvels.
Before anyone says anything, NO!!! I am not about to start opening up my precious Breitlings and Omegas and start fiddling with them.
I do have a number of significantly cheaper watches, some with ETA movements and some Chinese (not copy watches or blatant homages but what one could consider as serious attempts by big Chinese watch makers attempting to make a good watch and I must say some of them are quite impressive).
These I can "experiment" with, not a big loss if I screw it up which is most likely what will happen
Anyway, just for some fun I bought this little timegrapher. I know it is far from what the real pros would use but it did cost me less than a Breitling calf strap.
So now it is time to start learning about rates, beat errors, amplitudes, sampling rates, etc...
My main question is - What could one accomplish with a simple device like this?
Is it good enough as an early warning system? Could it be good enough for periodic tests as a diagnostic to determine that something inside is in need of expert attention?
Last but not least, Roff, I remember you asking in some past posts about articles ideas. Is this something that would be worth covering? Simple timegrapher usage, limitations, basic parameters, their interpretation, etc...
Anyway, this is the little device. Next I think it will be the Timezone Watch School as something to do in my spare time and most importandly to keep me away from the "For Sale" threads
[Edit] One more thing. Does anyone know a good source for the values of lift angles for the different movements? The default value on this unit is set to 52 degrees but I believe a correct value for individual movement is needed when measuring the amplitude.

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"It is just a matter of time!"

TZ Watch school is OK - you may want to look at one of the correspondence courses available on eBay as well - Chicago and Bulova are both pretty good. For lift angles try this - http://pczw.uhren-mikl.com/downloads/gamma.pdf - if your German isn't up to snuff it's the last column.

You can do a fair bit of diagnosis with a timing machine - obviously rate variations for the watch, but in particular rate variations in a particular position - at the simple end that can help you figure out how to rest the watch, but it can also help to diagnose problems like broken jewels that will be more obvious in certain positions (although it's certainly not definitive). Rate variations will be enough to help you if you decide to try and regulate the watch with the regulator - although be aware that significant errors can't be adjusted that way, it's simply for 'fine tuning'.

As a 'snapshot' tool it's really just interesting, but as an indicator of trends then certainly it can help you out with early signs of impending problems. Of course if you do start regulating your own watches then it becomes invaluable, but remember to time in different positions over a period of time.

The amplitude can help you understand the impact of hte chronograph - the less that the amplitude drops with the chrono running the less friction there is, and it can also help you to monito the watch over time - a significantly lower amplitude may well indicate a reduction in lubrication in hte running train and / or a weakening mainspring.

Danke schon Her Roff.
Das ist sehr gutte Erklarung.
Mein Deutsch is vielleight nicht sehr gut aber auch nicht zu schlecht

All else fails, there is always google translate!

Other than perhaps the question of accuracy of this particular timegrapher, it's main weakness is that it only gives a measurement snapshot at any given time or while looking at it.
It gets a bit more tricky if one wants to observe the movement's performance variations over several hours such as when the power reserve is winding down as it does not have a storage/memory capability.
Anyway, difficult to expect much for a little over $100.
Will be looking for something more advanced once my disease progresses to the next level

Once again for great hints.

_________________
"It is just a matter of time!"

That PDF is an excellent reference Roff, a must keep, thanks again.
I noticed that Breitling Cals are not on the list. Is it safe to assume that the Breitling cal lift angles are the same as the base ETA/Valjoux movements or did Breitling modifications inflict a change to the value?
Do you by any chance know the lift angle of Breitling Cal 01?
Again, not even dreaming about touching my Breitlings but just want to make sure that I have it all set correctly when playing with the timegrapher.
As most of the common movements are in the 50-54 degree range, does 2-3 degrees variation on the lift angle make much difference on the amplitude reading?

_________________
"It is just a matter of time!"

Lift angle will likely be the same as the ETA / Valjoux - no idea on a B01, sorry. The lift angle won't make a huge difference - especially if you are using the same value from check to check - it's the variation that indicates a problem vs. the pure number which is really just a reference (within reason). Easy test - measure the amplitude with the timer set to different lift angles and you should see only slight variations in the results.

Good point, makes perfect sense.

Thanks again Roff!

_________________
"It is just a matter of time!"

Pardon me if I didn't understand, but does one have to open up the watch to place it on this timegrapher?

No, it's based on the sound of the escapement.

So I bought this toy and experimenting with it. Amplitude is between 340 - 350 with the watch lying flat. Vertical, it is between 320 - 335. In either case, the rate is within -4s and +6s, sometimes even 0. Watch is a Chronomat Evo (Valjoux 7750).

I read on many sites that high amplitude is a sign of problems with the movement. Should I be worried?

EDIT: I just re-read another thread dealing with magnetization. Holy cow! In my job, I spent extended periods of time on my iPad that has a smart cover and I believe this could have caused the magnetization. Now I need to buy a demagnetizer. But a question I still have is how is the rate solid at COSC specs?

Your amplitude is fine and clearly your watch isn't magnetised because it is running accurately.