The Breitling Watch Source Forums

I know a lot of you will have already seen the new models in person numerous times, but Breitling haven't really been on my radar since the Kern takeover, so I'd not seen many of them together. But I was in central London the other day, and I took my usual pilgrimage down Bond St to have a look at the various watch boutiques, and I noticed the Breitling boutique had a decent number of the new 2018 models, so I went in to have a look. They had a large number of the Navitimer 1 models, plenty of Navitimer 8 models, most of the new SOH models and the two "new" Chronomat B01's. I was pretty critical of the new models when I saw pictures in the run up to Baselworld, but as always there's really no substitute for seeing a watch in person.

And my verdict? Errrrr.... almost completely unchanged! The Navi 1 Chronos are still as great as ever, but that's because Breitling has very wisely not really messed about with them. They're still THE quintessentially classic Breitling, and I'm relieved not much has changed.

The Navi 8's are (and I apologise in advance to any fans or current/future owners) an exercise in abject blandness. I found them just as horribly dull in person as I thought they'd be in the pictures, and I can safely say that if I was GIVEN one, I'd sell it without batting an eyelid.

Now the new 42mm and 46mm SOH's were the range I really, REALLY wanted to love as they tick a number of boxes of the type of watch I really like - modern interpretations of classic models. However, the big problem for me is the sunburst dial as it just doesn't go with the ceramic bezel in certain lights. It can look incredibly washed-out at certain angles, and that's a big shame because if they had non-sunburst gloss (or even matt) dials, they'd be winners in my book.

The real and surprising winner for me was the *ahem* "new" Chronomat B01. Breitling have done a superb (and subtle) job on that model - they've tidied up all the multitude of dial fonts that's beset the Chronomat B01 since day one, they've binned the "somewhat" polarising Buck Rogers bezel, and they've brushed the whole thing. They've done a truly FANTASTIC job on it IMO. HOWEVER, having just two colour options for the dial (and slightly odd colour choices at that), is a huge missed opportunity for me. There's nothing wrong with 'Blackeye Blue' and 'Blackeye Grey' per se, but they're a little niche (especially with miss-matched colour date wheels ), and they're usually the kinds of colourway you see after more traditional combinations have been released. If that watch was offered with a black dial with either black or white subdials, I'd have genuinely bought one there and then.

So I'm just going to keep a "watching brief" on the Breitling website, and if the Chronomat B01 ever gets a black dial then I may once again purchase a new Breitling. But as it is.......I'm sorry to say that Breitling won't be getting any more of my money any time soon.

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Driver8

Site Moderator

Interesting. I need to check them out too.

Sent from my SM-G965W using Tapatalk

Yeah, after I looked at them I would agree with this. I tried to like the Navi 8 but just couldn't get myself over the bland field watch look. Really don't like the sub-dial design on the B13 version also.

Still waiting for a lumed arabic Navitimer 1 (still with slide rule bezel)

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Chrono Jetstream
Montbrilliant 1903
Aerospace E79362

Thanks for sharing those thoughts, Driver. I must say, I'm not at all surprised to hear your reaction to the Navi 8 models. I have yet to see them in the metal, but they leave me cold.

I was happy to see that the Chronomat was released with a brushed finish, as I think this has been something Breitling has needed for a while. How did the bezel strike you in person? Interesting to see that there are no numerals at all on the new bezel, even on the rider tabs, which appear to be polished. Incidentally, I believe that Fred's previous posting has suggested that there will be a larger re-launch of the Chronomat coming up -- so, it's likely that more color choices will be on the way.

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Cheers,
Jim

Hi Jim - I thought the bezel was perfect TBH. Obviously very similar to the Airborne's bezel but without the rubber inserts. I always thought that the Airborne bezel was a step in the right direction from the Buck bezel, but I've never been a huge fan of rubber inserts, so the new Chronomat's is perfect. The rider tabs are indeed polished, which gives a nice contrast to the brushing everywhere else, and to be honest I don't think the omission of the numbers on the tabs detracts from it at all : in fact, I really like the cleaner look, even if you do lose a tiny amount of functionality.

I recall Fred saying about a Chronomat relaunch, and it'd be great if that just means more dial colours for the current model......BUT I'm concerned these two current models are just a way for Breitling to use up some old remaining cases they have in stock, before relaunching the Chronomat in a completely new form. If that's the case then I will obviously reserve judgement until they're released, but on the strength of what I've seen of Kern's vision thus far, then I'm prepared to be disappointed.

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Driver8

Site Moderator

I passed by an AD last month and that was what I saw. I almost puked when I saw them together. I walked away and went back after a few days to see if my opinion would change because the thing about luxury watches is that sometimes you need to see them a few times before you can start appreciating them. There were many models in the past that I didn't like at first but the more I saw them, the more I began to appreciate and liked them. This time round, I ended up walking away and shaking my head once again.

I know many watch lovers prefer discreet and simple designs. However there is a difference between being discreet and dull. All I saw were IWC wannabes. I do prefer brushed finish to polished finish. However the brushed finish on the new models, for some reason look extremely dull, until to the extent that they look pathetic rather than refined. IMHO, you need brushed finish to tone down a watch that has a "stand out look" (eg. Chronomat) but you need some polished finish on a simpler designed watch (eg. Transocean) to balance out. In this case, they over applied brushed finish on an already down toned design. Even the dial color is dull.

I do not see a need for the new Navi 01 since the design has been relatively unchanged, except with a different and cheapened logo. I know most people prefer the new Chronomats to the old Buck Rogers Chronomat. It's a matter of preference but at least they still offer both versions, which is a good thing. The part that does not do justice to the new Navi 01 and Chronomat IMO is the choice of dial color. Compare the BEB color on the old models to the new ones. The old BEB looks so much better. It's a shame because Breitling used to produce the best looking BEB dial in the market IMO. The new version looks like a faded old BEB after keeping the watch for a few hundred years. I know they want to make the watch more down toned but they are making the watch look dull and old instead of refined IMO. Change the dial color to the old BEB, change the B logo to the wings logo. And I think we have a winner.
The Navi 01 and Chronomat are Breitling's icons and "higher end" models so they should retain the solid gold wings logo to distinct between their higher end and basic range IMO.

Luxury watches do not necessary have to look flashy or "expensive". However they should command an acceptable amount of wrist presence on the wrist with an extraordinary aura that you cannot find in a normal quartz watch. After all watches are men's only jewellery and meant to compliment our attire. Therefore I am never impressed by watches that look over dull and lack the aura of a high quality watch. I have always thought all luxury watches possess their own character and and charisma until the new Navi 8 series "impressed" me.

I have heard of rumors that all the new series have been well received and sales are growing. Good for Breitling. I still love the brand and I am glad that I got my Navi 01 46 and Chronomat 01 LE before all these changes happened. I will never sell these 2 and the Chronomat is still my grail. However never in my life will I buy a Breitling again. The poor value and inconsistency in identity prevents me from buying too many. IMO buying just one or two that I like to keep is enough.

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Breitling Chronomat 01 Limited Edition
Breitling Navitimer 01 46mm

As mentioned in the previous post, you need to see pieces more than once to start appreciating them. Last time when a colleague tried the Navitimer 8 B01 Chronograph 43 with Blue Dial, it looked nice on him. I do liked the color combo and it really stand out. However when you have the watch in hands, compared to the Navi 01 or the Chronomat I own, I don't feel anymore the "presence" and quality finish of mines. This includes the bracelets as well, the new leather are so "standard" like found on entry level Swatch Group brands.

I also saw a new chronomat B01 blackeye grey brush finish, and I feel also that it was "dull" compared to the mine. All brushed finish is not the way to go for such chronograph, especially the metal bracelet as well. My 2 chronomat have a brushed bezel and I do think it's the perfect combo with the polished case. Brushed case/bracelet were perfect on Avenger & Chronomat Blackbird.

Like others here, I think I will not buy anytime soon another Breitling, maybe the SOH 42. I will enjoy mine for the moment.

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Chronomat B04 44 GMT Blackeye Grey
Chronomat B01 44 White Dial/Brushed bezel
Navitimer 01 LE Mercury Dial
Old Navitimer II TwoTone Blue/Yellow Gold
SO 42 LE Orange
Galactic Chrono II 44 Blue dial

I definitely agree with you on this. Personally I too find that all-polished Chronomats (especially on the bracelet) look way too blingy for me these days, but a classically styled watch like the TOC (particularly on a leather/croco strap) looks superb when it's polished.

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Driver8

Site Moderator

I have been wearing my Chronomat Airborne the last couple of days, and it has suddenly occurred to me that, in the end, the Airborne styling has essentially become the styling for the new Chronomats (absent the rubber inserts on the bezel).

I actually think that the Airborne bezel with the rubber inserts would look fairly killer -- especially, for example, on a black-eye/blue version. I know that there are folks who aren't fans of the rubber inserts, but I wonder if this objection isn't more of an intellectual one versus a practical one. From a day-to-day wearing perspective, I find the Airborne bezel to look really clean and sharp, and the black inserts help with legibility. Anyway, I'd be interested in seeing how this might look.

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Cheers,
Jim

Can't agree more on the Airborne, I simply love mine. I've just been going back and forth on adding a strap option for mine.

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Justin
Please contact me via PM for the contact details for Govberg Jewelers
Govberg is an AD for over 50 fine Swiss and German watch brands.
Visit them on the web at http://www.govbergwatches.com or call 800-528-8463

My feedback to the Navitimer 8 as a dealer:
I did not like the picures at first, but after having the models in the store I have to admit, they sell. Specially the small nonchronograph is bought by chinese tourists. So far, we sold 6 pices, none to Breitlingfans, most of them to tourists. The watch opens up a new group of customers for the brand, although most traditional Breitlingbuyers don't like them.
Now the next step will come: The Premiere.
I already doubt, that it will meet the wishes of the Community, but I hope, there will be a customer group for it...

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http://www.ellert.at

Interesting. Can you provide any further details or info about the Premiere? And what is it about the Premiere that leads you to believe that it will not meet the wishes of the Breitling community, as you put it?

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Cheers,
Jim

and that was precisely what Breitling desperately needed - the China market is finally waking up to the brand, more to come.

Jim, I’d be very surprised if you don’t like (at least some of) the Premier.

More in October.

Assume @alien is anticipating the “no wings, no Breitling” and “anything below 46mm is a woman’s watch” comments.

Hear great early sales results for the 38mm Navitimer 1 too, btw.

I wonder how the sales have been so far for the Navi and Chronomat now without the winged logo.

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18k Rolex Datejust / Breitling Crosswind Special / Patek SS Nautilus / Bvlgari Diagono Chrono / Bvlgari Scuba / Omega Speedmaster Professional / 60s Omega Constellation